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| Shell Dwellers |
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Shell dwellers
are really just a subset of egg-layers. I
include them here as their own category due to their very interesting behavior. Discus and Waroo and another set of fish that
deserve their own category, but I unfortunately do not yet have any experience breeding
them. Shell Dwellers
live and breed in shells. This is most
commonly achieved by the creation of a colony as in the case of the multifasciatus and
similis, but may be in more of a pairing fashion as in the case of the black and the gold
ocellatus. To breed shell
dwellers, it is not necessary to have shells. What
the fish is really looking for is any small tight protective area. However, it is highly recommended that you do have
shells. Any shell that has at least a ¾
opening should work fine. Ive used sea
shells, garden snail shells, and apple snail shells. They
all work great, and there doesnt appear to be one that is any better than any other. The only key to the shell is that it is large
enough to get into and that it doesnt have anything dead and decaying inside. While it is not
necessary to have shells, it is nearly necessary to have a sand or very fine rock
substrate. Shell dwellers are great sculpters,
and they will use the sand to define their territories.
Many species will also bury unused shells so that other fish do not move
into their territory. Whats more, the
females often will bury their own shells so that the only thing visable is the actual
shell opening. Breeding
shell-dwellers can usually be accomplished by placing 5 or fish together when they are
very small (ie 1 and under) Since no
shell-dweller gets over 2 inches, they are great fish to keep in small tanks. A 10 gallon tank will usually work great for a
breeding colony. However, a 10-gallon aquarium
only really allows for one male, so if you have more than one male, you will find the
other one hovering in the corner. Still,
Ive had over 80 shell-dwellers in a 10 gallon at one time running minimal
filtration. If you really
want to see these fish shine, try a much larger tank, say 65 gallons. It will allow for the fish to set-up multiple
colonies, and frankly, that is something to see. Very
few fish are small enough that you can see how the act in nature in your own home, but the
shell-dweller fits that bill. |
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| Bubble-Nest
Builders (gourami,
betta) |
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Anabantids, more
commonly known as gourami, paradise fish, and betta are an amazingly interesting fish to
breed. Not only are they fairly easy for the
beginner to breed, the way that they breed is extremely showy. Whats more, the males of these fish are
typically among the prettiest among aquarium fish. They
include such favorites as the betta, dwarf gourami and pearl gourami. Sexing the fish is not difficult. They, like most cichlids, have a dorsal fin that is
a big tip-off. Females typically have a
rounded dorsal fin, whereas males have a pointed dorsal fin.
Females also tend to be much bulkier than males in the tummy section. The bubble-nest
builders will typically breed by having the male build a nest out of bubbles. The male will display, by extending his fins, and
will try to entice the female under the bubble-nest. The male and female fish will embrace
near the surface of the water, with the eggs being released and falling towards the bottom
of the tank. The male will catch the eggs in
his mouth and place them into the bubble nest. The
process will continue until the female is out of eggs to release, at which point the male
will become very antagonistic towards any other fish it sees. Due to that fact, it is advisable to remove the
female after breeding. The only trick being to
do so without damaging the bubble-nest. After
removing the female, leaving the male with the eggs is advisable. You will see that the eggs will continue to fall
out of the nest, and if there is no one there to put them back, they will be lost. The nest will also need to be rebuilt as time goes
on, and the male will be there to do that when it is necessary. In most cases, the male should be removed when the
young are fully free swimming. After the young
first hatch, they will do more falling than swimming, so leaving the male in will remain
an important thing, as he will help to place the fry back into the nest. However, once the fry are able to swim on their
own, most males will eat them, not realizing that they are the same fry that he has been
caring for.
A couple more
thoughts about breeding bubble-nest builders. You
will be much more likely to get the fish to breed if the tank is full of plants. Many of the bubble-nest building fish will
incorporate bits of plant matter into the nest that the build, making plants a necessity. Whats more, having plants will often help
provide microscopic food that will be eaten by the fry as they are born. The second suggesting is that you keep the tank
shallow. I recommend filling a 10 gallon tank
about half-full of water to accomplish this. The
reasons are two-fold. First, the fry require
surface air when they are young. If the tank
is too deep, and they are unable to make it to the surface quickly, they will drown. Secondly, the air that the fry breathe from the
surface needs to be moist. If the tank is half
full, and covered, a warm moist area of air will form, that will be perfect for developing
the surface-air-breathing organ of these fish. (The labyrinth that gives this class of
fish one of its common names) Feeding the fry
is often a very difficult task to undertake. A
much finer food must be used. The best food I
can suggest is a VERY small live food. I have
tried fine flake foods such as OSIs microfood with mixed results. Powdered flake, such as tetras fry food is
much too large for the tiny mouths of most anabantid fry to eat. Liquid food are good, but if the food sinks to the
bottom of the tank, it will not be eaten, and it will become possible danger to the
tankdwellers. The anabantids
are a very interesting class of fish that are as much fun for a beginner to keep as they
are for a more advanced hobbyist. They are my
personal favorite type of fish, and I always seem to be looking for a new species to breed
to see how they make their slight variations on the generalities listed above. |
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| webmaster@theaquarians.net Copyright © 1999 Russell Carroll. All rights reserved. Last modified: February 09, 2004 |
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