Fish Keeping 210 - Intro to Labyrinth Fish

Fish Keeping 210

Part 1. Intro to Labyrinth Fishes (Anabantoids)
(by Russell Carroll Oct 10, 2002)

Labyrinth fish are among the most interesting fish available to the hobby today. In addition to very diverse and curious behavior, they have startling colors that make them a continual favorite in the hobby. If you have never looked into keeping Labyrinth fish, they are highly suggested. This is an introduction to many of their behaviors with key tips for breeding the anabantoids and a listing of many of the commonly available species that are easy to keep.

Labyrinth fish are characterized by having a "labyrinth" organ that allows them to breath surface air. In some of these fish, the ability to breath surface air is complimented by the ability to leave the water for periods of time, and to "crawl" their way to other water supplies. Other fish in this group can bury themselves in the mud for long periods of drought, waiting for the rains to return. The labyrinth organ has supposedly evolved from the need for the fish to get air from outside sources as often they inhabit small oxygen-poor pools.

These fish are wide-spread, occurring from Africa through Asia. The only strange thing is that there are no Labyrinth fish yet known in South America. Most of the fish commonly sold in pet stores come from the area from China to Singapore over through India.

Labyrinth fish breed in many ways. The most common way is by creating a "bubble-nest." This nest is actually a large collection of spit-bubbles that are very difficult to pop. Other Labyrinth fish breed in caves or as mouth-brooders like many popular cichlids.

The Anabantoids are the most commonly available fish from this group. They are commonly known as Betta, Gourami and Paradise fish. The "Betta" is perhaps the most common fish you'll find in someone's home, but the name is actually a little misleading. The Betta's name is derived from the Genus of it's scientific name, betta splendens. The interesting part of that is that there are actually more than thirty species in that genus. Notwithstanding, most of the other fish in the genus of Betta are not commonly available in pet stores, and since this is more of an introduction, we'll cover the majority of the available Anabantoids and tips to keeping/breeding them here.

Tips on Keeping and Breeding...

-Fighting. Male's from the Anabantoids are among the most feisty fish available. You may have heard that Betta will fight on sight and cannot be kept together. What you may not have heard is that the same can be said of most every male Anabantoid. Even Dwarf Gourami male's will typically beat each up if kept together in small quarters. The good news is that the 'fights' that these fish have do not typically include more than a few nipped fins. Even the Betta do not 'fight to the death.' After a few nipped fins the loser will look for shelter. The problems arise only when there is no shelter for the losing male to find. In well-planted tanks, you can keep multiple males of the same species.

-Mixing and matching doesn't work out too well. Since the fish are so feisty, putting males of different species together, such as blue and dwarf gourami, will often result in the same types of fights as you would have with two males of the same species in the same aquarium. Again, this can be done, but only with care, a large aquarium, and lots of hiding spots.

-Crossbreeding. Many of the Anabantoids can cross-breed. The dwarf gourami will willingly hybridize with the thick-lipped gourami for example. This leads to fish that do not have the original gene pool and should therefore be avoided.

-Male/Female Ratio. Females are often the unwitting receivers of much abuse from their male counterparts after breeding. This occurs because the male will guard the nest from any intruder. In the wild, this serves to protect the nest from other fish. However, a tight-quartered aquarium with only a female present, leaves but one target. Most of the gourami will be easier to breed if you have 2 females in with the male. This will give the male two targets, thus decreasing the stress on any one fish, as the male becomes extremely aggressive before and after breeding. After breeding, it is of course suggested to remove the females to another tank. You can also remove the bubblenest and eggs to another tank, but that isn't suggested.

-Plants matter. Many of the most common Labyrinth fish use plant matter in their nest. Many others use things such as large leaves to build their nests under. It is therefore highly suggested that you keep your breeding gourami in a well-planted tank. Besides the breeding help, plants provide another important supplement...Food! Gourami fry are among the smallest fry you will find. Feeding them can be quite a challenge. Plants provide a base for many microscopic organisms that will help to get your fry through their first few challenging days until you get them large enough to eat baby brine shrimp. (after 1-2 weeks) If you cannot have plants, you can try floating some floss or an algae pad at the top of the aquarium as many gourami will use it as a basis for building a bubblenest.

-Live food & Water Changes. Most of the commercially available gourami are easy to breed. Still even with them you can find a few that are quite stubborn. If you do find a male who isn't building a bubblenest, or a female who isn't bulking up as they should, you can try live foods and water changes. Live food, such as blood worms, will always produce more vigor in fish. This often leads to brighter colors and better size, which leads to more 'natural' behavior. Water changes of 20% or more often signals to the anabantoids that it is time to breed. Remember that these fish live in pools, streams, and rivers in the wild. An influx of new water in the wild typically means rain and more water for them, which is an ideal time to breed. At least it is much better than when the pool you are in is drying out!

-Temperature. Another environmental factor that often leads to the fish breeding is the temperature. Raising the temperature to 82 degrees will often cause the fish to think it is a good time to further its progeny.

-Setting up a tank. You will typically want no more than 6 inches of water in an Anabantoid tank. This for several reasons. First, since these Labyrinth fish breath surface air, you will want air available to them to breath. Cover the tank tightly. This will make the air above the tank warm and moist, just perfect for young and old labyrinth fish. It will also keep hard water deposits from occurring on your aquarium's glass as water evaporates. The second reason to have 6 inches or less of water, is that the fry when first hatched are rather random swimmers. They just swim in a direction without considering the direction what they are going. The male will pluck the fry on their descent and will return them to the nest. If the water is too deep, the fry will likely exhaust their father and many will be lost. A heavily planted tank has been suggested above, but I mention it again here as it is very important. Also, you'll want to avoid a power filter on a Labyrinth fish tank. I typically will use a very small internal filter on its lowest setting or a very weak pump and airline. If the surface water of the tank is splashing around, it will be impossible for the gourami to build a bubblenest. The same holds true if there is too much current in the water.

Strange...but true

-Spitting. Many labyrinth fish, including the commonly available blue and dwarf gourami are able to spit projectiles out of the aquarium. This typically occurs when a small fly or other food source comes down near the water's surface. The fish will shot the insect with a water droplet, hoping to drop it into the water. While they aren't nearly as impressive at doing so as archerfish, they nevertheless can do so.

-Living in mud. As the water dissipates out of pools, often a small mud puddle is left behind. Betta Splendens are known to create a small burrow in the ground and then to create a plug to keep the burrow wet on the inside. When the rains return, the betta will break out of its hibernation spot.

-Mouthbrooding. There are some betta species that have another interesting breeding tactic. The males will pick up the eggs in their mouths, and instead of putting the eggs into a bubble-nest, they will brood the eggs in their mouths. After several days, they simply release the fry, much like many African Cichlids.

-1868!? The Paradise Fish is believed to have been the first warm-water fish to be kept in captivity. (Goldfish had been in captivity for centuries) The ability to breath surface air, makes it easy to keep many labyrinth fish and that has led to the popularity of the Betta today.

-Breeding Coloration. Most Labyrinth fish show 2 coloration patterns that can often be very different. When breeding, they will show much stronger colors. For example, when the Black Paradise fish is breeding, it transforms from a dull tan fish, into a velvety black beauty.

-Breathing in Schools. If kept in large groups, gourami will often school together. While that isn't out of the ordinary, it is interesting to note, that they will typically all surface for air at the same time.

Mini-Profiles

Betta splendens - Siamese Fighting Fish - Contrary to common belief, the Betta is a beautiful fish even in the wild. It hails from swampy areas and is very hardy. Popular due to its wide variety of colors, the Betta is a good community fish if not kept with other gourami or fish with long flowing fins such as guppies. There are many species of Betta, the splendens is known to the public as the "Betta" (pronounced bet'ta). Males should be kept separate unless they are kept in a large well-planted aquarium. Though it is often kept in bowls, the recommended temperature for the fish is 75-86 degrees Fahrenheit.

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Colisa labiosa - Thick Lipped Gourami - This fish is rarely seen in its natural coloration in stores. More commonly found as the Sunset Gourami, it is nonetheless a worthy fish and can easily be kept in a community aquarium. It is not picky as to food or water (70-76 degrees Fahrenheit) and is easy to breed. It does not usually use plant material in its bubblenests. Typically 600-1000 eggs are laid, though you will have difficulty raising one theth that many to adulthood.

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Colisa lalia - Dwarf Gourami - One of the most popular gourami, this fish is very small and a single male can easily be kept in an aquarium of 5 gallons or less. I've even bred them in a tank that size. Many color varieties have been developed including "Powder Blue" and "Blood Red." Females are very difficult to find in pet stores due to low demand, so finding a pair to breed can be difficult. Temperatures should be maintained from 75-82 making it compatible with most community aquarium fish.

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Colisa fasciata - Giant Gourami - Also known as the "Banded Gourami," this fish is rarely seen in pet stores. Despite the name Giant, it grows no larger than the Thick-Lipped or Blue gourami, topping out at about 4 inches. It is among the more easily kept gourami being adaptable to a wide range of temperatures (71-82). As with most gourami, the males can become aggressive when in breeding condition, but the visual display is also much more pronounced, making this a much better looking fish than you might think.

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Colisa sota - Honey Gourami - Also known as Colisa chuna, this gourami has also been bred into multiple color patterns and are also commonly sold as the "Cinnamon Gourami." There is some confusion to the name as reportedly the males were first categorized as Colisa chuna with the females being classified as Colisa sota. They are still used as synonyms in the hobby today. This is among the smaller of the gourami, maxing in at about 1.75 inches. It also can be kept in cooler temperatures, much like the "Giant Gourami," with the same spread of 71-82 degrees Fahrenheit.

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Macropodus opercularis - (Blue) Paradise Fish - The original warm water fish, the Paradise fish sports beautiful colors in both its normal and 'albino' forms. This fish can be kept well in solitude, though it gets larger, 5 inches, than is customary for small aquariums. Known to be a rather mean customer, I don't suggest keeping males of this species in a community aquarium as it will likely kill other peaceful fish species. This fish can even be kept in ponds in warm climates. Will thrive in water 60-80 degrees Fahrenheit. For breeding, large amounts of cover for the female is suggested to preserve her life until you are able to remove her.

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Macropodus concolor - Black Paradise Fish - Much like its cousin the Blue Paradise Fish, it grows too large for small aquariums. It also is capable of lower temperatures with a range of 68-80 degrees Fahrenheit. It is much less likely to kill your community fish and can be kept in a community aquarium with a little bit of caution. Males will fight among themselves as is common to gourami, so it is suggested that you only have one male per tank, or have a large well-planted aquarium if you wish to keep more than one male. This fish is RARELY available in stores.

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Pseudosphromenus dayi - Day's Spiketail Paradise Fish - A beautiful little fish with bright blue highlights and a long spiked tail, this fish is only occasionally available in pet stores. It is peaceful and reaches just 2.5 inches long including its inch plus long tail. Can easily be kept in a community aquarium kept from 75-82 degrees Fahrenheit with the higher temperatures being more conducive to breeding. I've always considered this the "Poor Man's Licorice Gourami," as it has much of the same coloration, but is much easier to keep and also easier to find in pet stores.

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Pseudosphromenus cupanus - Red-Eyed Spiketail - A cousin of the Day's Spiketail Paradise fish, this fish is also sold in stores as the Spike-Tail Paradise fish. Though it reaches a smaller size than its cousin, reaching around 2.25 inches, it lacks the tail of the Day's Spiketail, and is actually a larger fish in actual fish size than that fish is. Much of its behavior is similar to the Day's Spiketail, and it can be kept in community aquariums with temperatures from 75-82 degrees Fahrenheit. It is only available occasionally.

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Trichopsis pumilus - Pygmy Gourami - Also sold as the "Sparkling Gourami" this may be the smallest of the Gourami reaching just 1.5 inches, and more typically just 1 inch. It does better in an aquarium with a pH that is neutral or slightly acidic, but it can often survive in an aquarium with slightly harder water. The aquarium should be well-planted as it is quite shy by nature. Only small fish or fish with similar temperments should be kept with this fish. It is not long-lived, often living just 1 year, but it can be bred with some effort. It typically uses the underside of a large floating leaf or a small cave as its breeding location. Rarely available, but a beautiful fish that can easily be kept in a 10-gallon aquarium, and will make the aquarium look like a show tank!

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Trichogaster trichopterus - Three Spot Gourami - Certainly the most commonly sold gourami, this gourami is also sold under the names, Crosby, Blue, Gold, Platinum and Marble to name just a few. There are many color morphs that have proved very common in the hobby and scientists are still determining if there is more than one species, or just a series of sub-species. It is easy to breed and to keep, though large males may sometimes be unsuitable for the community aquarium. Males are easily picked out by their spiked dorsal fin. A 30 gallon or larger aquarium is typically best for breeding the fish. The young are easier to raise than most gourami fry. Due to their long-time in captivity, this fish can withstand most water temperature ranges. (71-82 degrees Fahrenheit)

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Trichogaster leeri - Pearl Gourami - The Queen of the Gourami, the Pearl gourami is a beautiful fish that is suitable for the community aquarium. They reach 4.5 inches in length, and males can be feisty, but for the most part, they are easy to keep with other fish. Temperature ranges from 74-82 should prove worthy of the fish, and they are not picky as to pH. They can be slightly difficult to breed, but with a couple of pairs in 2 separate breeding aquariums, breeding is likely to occur in at least one of the tanks.

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Trichogaster microlepis - Moonlight Gourami - Also known as the moonbeam gourami, this silvery fish can be an eye-popper in pet stores, but grows large (up to 6 inches) and needs a larger aquarium then most aquarists can dedicate to it. It is nonetheless peaceful for its size and can be a beauty in a larger aquarium. pH should be on the neutral side, and temperatures should be between 76-86 degrees Fahrenheit, making it a gourami needing a little more personal care than some.

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Trichogaster pectoralis - Snakeskin Gourami - Although not commonly available, the Snakeskin gourami is an interesting fish. It is not nearly as colorful as some of the other gourami, but has a very showy snakeskin-like pattern on its body. Nevertheless, this fish is not a good candidate for the home aquarium. It reaches over 8 inches in length in nature and is considered by some to be a food fish. It is adaptable to water that is harder and more basic than other gourami and will survive well in a temperature from 72-83 degrees Fahrenheit. A very peaceful fish, it is known to not eat its fry when they become free-swimming unlike other gourami.

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Helostoma temminckii - Kissing Gourami - Another commonly sold fish that is not best fit for a small aquarium. The Kissing Gourami is well known because of its behavior of latching lips with other Kissing Gourami. This is most likely a territorial display with other males, and is not involved in courtship. There are two varieties, green and pink, though typically only the pink is seen in pet stores. This is not a good community fish due to the fact that it grows to 15 inches long. However, it is easy on water requirements, and is long-lived, leading to it being a reasonable fish for a beginner to start with.

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Osphronemus goramy - Gourami - Also known as the giant gourami, this fish is occasionally found in pet stores. It is not recommended for the home aquarium as it reaches 30 inches in length, a very robust size. This fish is a major food source in all areas it is found. There are two varieties that are perhaps 2 different species, but neither is very colorful, the one being brown and the other being a more golden white. It has been used in some areas of the US for mosquito control and can live in water from 65-82 degrees Fahrenheit.

Conclusion

The fish listed above are a very small sampling of the Gourami that exist. It is a list of the most common gourami available as well as a few less common ones, but it does not take into consideration any gourami that have very specific water requirements such as the licorice gourami, the chocolate gourami or the mouthbrooding betta. There are a few gourami listed that aren't very common, but those are listed because their care requirements are easy. It is my intent to at some point continue this series by writing a Fish-Keeping 350 series of article that will take into consideration some of the more difficult and more uncommon Labyrinth fish such as some licorice gourami species, many of the less common betta species, and other Labyrinth fish such as the combtail and other African Labyrinth fish.

The Labyrinth fish family is a varied family with lots of surprises and many fish that will keep you entertained for hours!

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